Dining at Moorish Blue
Some say that it’s really all in the name, and if that’s the case, then Moorish Blue does a pretty bang on job of telling us about who they are. This newish addition to the North Sydney dining scene may be young, but walking through its doors feels like entering some otherworldly Mecca steeped in the authentic tradition of cultures seas over.
Moorish is the name, loosely given, to the cuisine that sprang up as a result of the Arabic occupation of North Africa in the Eighth Century. But as centuries passed, Moorish food has done more than absorb the range of exotic spices, herbs, vegetables and fruits that the Arabs introduced. Moorish Blue cooks to reflect a more modern take on the cuisine, as Turkish and Spanish influences rear their heads and collide with the freshness of Australian produce.
The menu is generous and perfect for sharing, in what seems to be an authentic nod to the communal eating experience of Arab cultures. We kicked off the night with a fresh array of beautifully creamy oysters, topped with zingy lime and a harissa dressing that packed just the right amount of punch. The salt cod croquettes were little pillows of paradise; the creamy potato sat in perfect contrast to the salt cod that had been folded through it. They were served with an interesting Middle Eastern green chilli-sauce that worked to break up that croquette-y richness.
The seafood driven dishes definitely wont leave you feeling blue, proving the real highlights to hit the table. On the smaller side of the spectrum were the Za’atar Salt & Pepper squid and the wok-fried king prawns with harissa. The squid was juicy and tender, served around a sunny side up egg and leaves of rocket. A generous mound of cooling parsley and mint complemented the harissa paste on the prawns.
Squid reared its head once again in another delicious turn, this time accompanied by pearl couscous, okra and Tunisian paste. The paste was flavourful and well incorporated throughout the dish, dressing slices and slivers of zucchini, pumpkin, onion and capsicum.
Another winner came in the form of the barramundi, with black chickpeas, kale and tahini yoghurt. The fillet was expertly cooked, with crispy skin but flaky flesh while the chickpeas and yoghurt helped bolster the flavours on show.
Cuttings Wine Merchants NSW do an excellent job of curating the wine list at Moorish Blue. The Prinz von Hessen H Line Riesling of 2013 from Rhinegau in Germany constantly disappeared from my glass as I downed it alongside the seafood dishes. The fruity flavours of crushed mandarin and orange blossom lent a real freshness to the food, proving a pretty harmonious combination.
If red is more your bag, give the Flametree ‘Embers’ Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret River a go. A superbly balanced Cabernet, with lovely flavours of plum, cassis and French oak went particularly well with dishes like the fried chicken and the mutton backstrap with caponata, fried okra and spiced yoghurt dressing.
As cutlery was brought together, and dishes were taken off the table, we were ushered out to the outdoor garden to unwind over a selection of desserts: Tunisian tea, Turkish coffee and shisha. As apple scented smoke started to permeate the air, tucking into the rosewater panna cotta felt like some sort of authentic Moorish experience.
I left the restaurant with a new slight stumble, full to the brim, and running on the buzz of great wine and several shots of beautiful Turkish coffee. I wandered to the front of the restaurant and walked past the room decorated almost entirely in blue – for a second I think I’m in Chefchaouen (sans the sticky Moroccan heat) but the memory of my fast-approaching train home snaps me out of it.
‘Moorish’ may just be the name of the cuisine, but everything about this place will leave you wanting more.
By Justin Wee
